SWR Special – ‘Bikepacking the Himalaya’

14 days – 656km – 7 x 4900m+ passes – endless river crossings – snow – sleet – ice – heat exhaustion – diarrhea – solo – on a bicycle… Prologue…

Chapter 34 – The Western BAM

[NB: Distance and time trips not updated this chapter] With so much going on everyday my diary notes are a little ‘thin’ for the period I spent in Siberia and…

Chapter 33 – Altai Adventure

It was a slow, snowy, slushy, muddy descent from the pass and I was conscious of the pain in my back after picking my bike up off the ground at…

Chapter 32 – ‘The Roof of the World’

Tajikistan Along with the change of country came a change of weather and as I followed the straight, smooth ribbon of tarmac along the wide valley so there was a…

Chapter 31 – Silk Roads to Siberia

England – Uzbekistan The long cold winter stretched all the way to Istanbul. The snowline throughout the Alps was still as low as 600m ski resorts normally looking sad and…

Chapter 30 – 2012: A Year in Transition

Indian Summer   “Good morning ladies and gentlemen. Welcome to Delhi International Airport where the time is 0320 and the outside air temperature 36°C (97°F)” …WTF!!! I was on my…

Chapter 29 – Welcome to the Jungle…

…”we got fun ‘n’ games”. The bugs ate me alive, I broke my speedometer, tent, laptop, sleeping pad and got stuck in Brazilian customs. Oh…and then there were the snakes…Fun…

Chapter 28 – The Altiplano

Trip distance and Time trip correct at La Paz, Bolivia on 28/11/11 More photos in the galleries Bolivia 2011 – Chile 2011 – Argentina 2011 The motorcyclists amongst you may…

Chapter 27 – “Here comes the sun…do do do do…”

Trip distance and Time trip correct at Peru/Bolivia border 11/08/11 More photos in the Peru 2011 gallery The motorcyclists amongst you may also like the ‘Trails of South America…a photo journal’…

Chapter 26 – “Rain drops keep falling on my head…”

Trip distance and Time trip correct at Ecuador/Peru border 16/06/11 More photos in the Ecuador gallery I was a little nervous as I rolled down the hill to the border,…

Chapter 25 – South to South America

“What do you mean you want the receipt for my tourist visa!!!???…How could I have entered without paying for it!?” The ‘migracion’ officer was adamant I pay again and gave…

Chapter 24 – Mexico

“Mmmm…that was a bit too easy” I thought as I rolled out of the Mexican border in Tecate. No US exit post, no Mexican immigration, no Customs. No paperwork was…

Chapter 23 – USA Finale

Back in the USA… I hit the ‘Update’ button for the blog (Chapter 22), finished loading Rosie and headed out into Vancouver’s late afternoon traffic. An hour later arrived at…

Chapter 22 – 100,000 miles…

It would have been nice to have passed the 100k miles marker on the same bike I’d left home with but it wasn’t to be; and so with Lady P…

Chapter 21 – Back on the Road

NB – This update also includes the ‘Suzuki’ tab There’s something cozy and secure about being tucked up inside your tent, warm and dry, whilst listening to the wind howling…

Chapter 20 – The Early Retirement of Lady P

Will she hold…leaving La Paz Graham & Graham were the first English overlanders I’d met since meeting Richard Harwood in Chile back in January. Young Graham (22) had flown his…

Chapter 19 – The Andes Proper

It would have been frighteningly easy to have left Brazil and entered Paraguay without having had any paperwork processed. Fortunately for me I’ve crossed enough borders now to know what…

Chapter 18 – South America-south

I hadn’t been so nervous in as long as I can remember and I wasn’t even on my bike. My throttle had been replaced by a microphone and the road…

Chapter 17 – Seven Island Odyssey

East Timor – Indonesia – Malaysia – Singapore After the third bounce I opened my eyes and looked out of the aeroplane window. “I’m in the wrong country!” was my…

Chapter 16 – A change of plan

Australia Riding east from Kununurra I felt tired, very tired. Not only had it bee an eventful few days but I’d ridden 34,000 km since arriving in Oz last November…

Chapter 15 – Crossing a Continent

Australia Autumn was making itself known as we rode out of Warragul. Not only were many of the trees turning various beautiful shades of red but the temperature had dropped…

Chapter 14 – Riding round in circles

Australia Raised eyebrows followed by “Bloody Hell; you’ve seen more than us!” has become the de-rigueur answer when the Australian’s we meet discover that we’ve managed to ride 13,000km between…

Chapter 13 – Back in the saddle.

New Zealand – Australia Going Solo With Danny’s saving running low he had no choice but to accept the offer of ‘job sponsorship’, made by one of a group of…

Chapter 12 – Winter down under

   New Zealand I’d ridden about 20km along the road to Jackson Point before I spotted the sign saying ‘The Craypot – Closed’. Bollocks! I’d been looking forward to ‘Fush…

Chapter 11 – Changing Hemisphere’s

Thailand – Malaysia   Missing parts…   “…Sorry, sorry, sorry…” gasped Garry the workshop manager at Autobavaria, Malaysia’s largest BMW dealer, as my hands tightened around his throat. Having ridden…

Chapter 10 – 1st Anniversary: A year on the road…

  Cambodia – Laos – Thailand It’s hard to believe we’ve been on the road a year, for March 17th, St.Patricks day, 2006 was the day we rode away from…

Chapter 9 – Deja Vous…

Nepal – Thailand – Cambodia Siem Reap, Cambodia, and our seventh suspension failure between us to date. Still, I can think of worse places to be holed up awaiting the…

Chapter 8 – Ladakh: The best motorcycling in the world?

India For the second time in six weeks I found myself beating my head on the wall of a Sikhs’ Engineering shop. The first had been in Leh when Dannys…

Chapter 7 – ‘Das ist Kein Urlab; das ist Abenteur!’

Iran – Pakistan Esfahan was our next stop and proved to be the highlight of Iran. We were expecting a much more religiously strict city but were pleasantly surprised with…

Chapter 6 – Guest contributor – Suska Olli (Finland)

Syria   After spending time with Suska in Syria we thought we’d ask her to write a ‘guest’ post on the blog. Here’s what she had to say… I still…

Chapter 5 – Axis of Evil?

Turkey – Syria – Iran This year Turkey is suffering from a greatly reduced number of tourists; something everyone is putting down to the bad publicity surrounding ‘Bird Flu’. As…

Chapter 4 – Visas, Tyres and a tug for speeding!

Turkey We were hoping to ride from Lake Ohrid (Macedonia) Gallipoli (Turkey) today but knew it would be a long shot given the two border crossings. Having collected bagels and…

Chapter 3 – Hidden Jewel

  Montenegro – Albania – Macedonia   Entering Montenegro was the first time we had had to do anything other than show our passports in order to enter. First there…

Chapter 2 – Bring on the Sunshine!

  Croatia After crossing the border into Croatia, we headed straight for Rijeka and the coastal road south. My initial thoughts of this road were that it reminded me of…

Chapter 1 – Road closed and Snowboarding

  England – France – Germany – Austria – Italy – Slovenia Departure Day – Friday 17th March 2006 After 21 months of planning, departure day was finally upon us…